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Ladakh Trek – the cause, the challenge, the experience

 

The cause:  Sewa International Education projects in India. 

The challenge: to take on the peaks of Palam (5360m) and Stok Kangri (6114m) in the Ladakh mountain range of India. 

The team: members of the Hindu samaj from across the UK.

The group of twenty-four people who came together at the Hotel Caravan Centre in Leh were from across the UK, of all ages and walks of life.  Some knew each other from their local area, some were relatives, some of us had taken on Mount Kilimanjaro in 2006, and some were just there for the trip of a lifetime.  There was a time when being thrown into a situation where I didn’t know most people would have terrified me.  But after 6 years at university and 5 years of NHSF involvement I’ve realised that it’s an opportunity, to share, to learn and to enjoy being with a group of unique individuals.  And the variety of people present just made it even more exciting that I’d be spending the next two weeks getting to know them. 

We had plenty of opportunity to get better acquainted, as the first four days of the trip were spent in and around Leh, with the purpose of acclimatising to the high altitude: the higher above sea-level you are, the less oxygen there is in the air.  This takes time for your body to get accustomed to.  But this wasn’t just about preparing our bodies for the harsh conditions we were about to experience, it was also about psychologically preparing for the huge challenge we were facing.  As you’ll read later, the relationships we formed with each other proved vitally important as the journey progressed.  And being in Ladakh provided a lot of food for thought.  It’s a corner of India unlike the India I am used to experiencing: different language, different customs, even a different religion, as the area is predominantly Buddhist.  Yet there was still a sense of belonging, and that really made me think about where my sense of connectivity to India comes from.

Taking in the environment around me, I contemplated both the stark differences and striking similarities between life there and life here.  Just because we have more creature comforts are our lives really better?  We were out there to raise money for charity, but by donating our money to ‘help’ what judgements were we making about their lives?  It took me many days of thinking on the trek to realise that there is nothing wrong with trying to make a difference.  What’s key is how you view what you are contributing.  We cannot assume that we have all the answers or can ‘solve’ problems: we’re not helping or giving charity, we are serving, offering sewa, as best we can. This point didn’t really hit home until we returned to Leh following the trek.  We had the opportunity to see the film Ancient Futures, which looks at the history of the Ladakh region, and how modernisation has affected it.  It touched me in a way I wasn’t expecting, making me re-think the concept of ‘progress’ and what gives value to life: individually, in families and as communities.

I started the trek on Thursday 5th July with a head full of such thoughts, but also with a stomach fluttering in excitement and anticipation.  Having tackled Mt. Kilimanjaro in the summer of 2006 I wasn’t as nervous as some, but as we drove higher up through the mountains to our start point at Choksi there was no escaping the enormity of the task facing us in our attempt to climb the peaks of Palam and Stok Kangri, at 5360m and 6114m respectively. Want to talk about the changing landscape from lush oasis to alpine desert (still don’t understand the definition of this) – no trees grow above 4600m. The next eight days were quite possibly the toughest of my life.  We experienced weather conditions across the board, from scorching sunshine to heavy snowfall.  We’d be wearing sunscreen and sunhats in the daytime, and huddling in fleeces inside our four-season sleeping bags at night.  The terrain was hard work, and every time we increased altitude things became a little more difficult for our bodies.  But those aren’t the things that defined the trek.   

Every time tiredness washed over us, all we had to do was look up at the sheer beauty of the scenery surrounding us to renew our energy.  If we became disheartened, we could always rely on another member of the group to lift our spirits with a joke or words of encouragement.  Mealtimes felt like family dinners, where we shared stories and sang songs (sometimes even in tune!) to put smiles on our faces.

The dynamic of the trekking group was a tremendous part of our experience in Ladakh.  Every person had a different background, but we were all brought together by a shared goal, which acted as motivation for all of us.  The personality of each person contributed something to our success: Ashokbhai kept us smiling with his constant jokes, Nareshbhai provided an older calmness; the antics of Sanjay, Dharmesh and Raghav often had us crying with laughter; Rajubhai and Harkishanji often started great evening conversations in the mess tent.  Nimuben and Manjuben played a key role in setting the pace.  The rule was that we were only as fast as our slowest member, but rather than this as holding the team back, it ensured we were moving gradually enough to acclimatise to the increasing altitude.

I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that this group spirit played a big part in getting us to the top of Palam Peak, which happened around lunchtime on Day 3, 7th July 2007.  Words cannot describe the beauty of the views we saw stood there at almost 5400m above sea-level: 360° of snow-topped mountains against the bluest sky.  It was my 24th birthday and I was literally standing on top of the world.  Exhilarated as I was feeling, I also felt a calmness that bordered on the spiritual.  It gave me a strange sense of perspective: how small we are in the grand scale of things, yet how much we can achieve if we have determination and drive. 

Pushing ourselves to the limit was something we had all prepared ourselves for, but once you reach that limit the safest thing to do it to stop.  For this reason, Day 5 saw the group split as 9 people headed back down to Leh, and 13 of us continued on to tackle Stok Kangri.  The trekking route was such that we had descended on Day 4, and then had to climb back up to the top of the Stok La Pass at 4900m.  More than ever, it was supporting and encouraging each other that kept us going.  The unsinkable spirit of my group was to prove more valuable than ever on Day 6, as we made a short journey to the Stok Kangri base camp.  Even before reaching the camp, altitude sickness had finally taken hold, leaving me feeling dizzy, sick and weak.  A decision was made, quite rightly, that my attempting the summit would not be a good idea.  I was utterly disappointed, but however great the challenge, it’s never worth placing yourself in unacceptable danger. 

In the early hours of Day 7 (11th July), 10 people set out to try and reach the summit of Stok Kangri, which is a towering 6114m above sea level.  The route was steep and treacherous, and they were on a time limit: once the sun rose, the ice covering the peak would start to melt, making it extremely dangerous to return.  It was a feat even to make the attempt, and all of those 10 people deserve credit for their courage.  In the end, only one person, Dharmesh Mistry, made it all the way to the top.  But his achievement was something that made us all proud; this was a journey we’d made together, an experience we’d shared that brought us together in a way we didn’t anticipate. 

The return of this now tight-knit group to Leh on 12th July brought mixed emotions: we were exhausted (and looking forward to experiencing running water again), but there was something quite sad about leaving the peace and unspoilt beauty we had been so lucky to experience out on the trek.  We saw landscapes change from lush oasis to alpine desert, saw wildlife which included mountain sheep, goats, donkeys and yak.  There was a real sense of connecting with nature and a chance to truly reflect on how we exist within the environment around us. 

I predicted this trip to Ladakh would be something special, and I was not disappointed.  The challenge of climbing the peaks was only part of the experience.  The eclectic group of people, the incredible wildlife, the beautiful scenery, the constant laughter… All these things will stay with me as much cherished memories.  A special mention must be made about the guides who accompanied us on our journey.  Without their service and support, we wouldn’t have lasted a day.  They were constantly smiling, providing encouragement.  Our food was incredible, there was always enough purified water to drink, and whenever someone was particularly struggling they wouldn’t hesitate in taking their rucksack and motivating them to continue.  Their prime concern was our welfare, and they never showed frustration, despite the slow pace of our relatively inexperienced group. 

Ever since I became part of National Hindu Students Forum (NHSF), I’ve been accepting new challenges: organising an event, becoming chapter president, joining the National Committee, giving speeches, making presentations...  Taking on a challenge will always bring trials, tribulations and ultimately a sense of achievement.  But if you can carry out that challenge to make some sort of difference - within yourself as well as externally - you gain a feeling that’s something different, that’s even deeper.  This feeling made me look inwardly and think about myself, about what drives my decisions, about my inspirations, about my aspirations.  Most importantly, this feeling made me contemplate if I needed to make changes in my life.  In the future when I look back on doing this amazing trek, that feeling is what I will remember most of all. 

Vibhuti Patel

3rd Year PhD student, Department of Biological Sciences, University of Warwick

President, National Hindu Students Forum (UK)  

 

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